The Fragrance Concentrations
by Roja Dove

PERFUME

Perfume (Parfum), or Extract (Extrait), is the most concentrated form of a creation. Many great fragrances were only made as Perfume and an assistant perfumer would create the Eau de Toilette, sometimes many years later. Perfume is the softest of all the strengths as they have comparatively very few volatile materials in them, which is why they stay on the skin for such a long time, making them soft, long-lasting and very refined. Approximately 50 per cent of the ‘ jus’ (the perfumery term for the formula) will stay on the skin for some 24 hours.

Because we refer to them as fragrance strengths, and Perfume is the most concentrated, many people mistakenly think of them as the strongest. Typically, the people who think this, are those who have never really worn them. It is also perceived as expensive, as the bottle looks so small in comparison to the price ticket. It must be remembered that 80 per cent of an Eau de Toilette will not last for more than four to five hours on the skin, so the money spent on an Eau de Toilette fragrances the atmosphere more than the wearer.

The best place to wear Perfume is wherever blood is closest to the surface of the skin, such as the inside of the wrists and elbows so that, as you move your arms past your face, you can easily smell the scent. It is also good to apply it to the dip of the collarbone. The beauty of applying it here is that as you move your head, your nose is directly over the scent, and anyone whispering sweet nothings in your ear is right over the ‘hotspot’! Never apply Perfume behind the ears as we have so many sebaceous glands there that the alkalinity of the sweat can ‘turn’ the odour. It is also good to apply it behind the knees and the ankles when you know you are going to be seated, as heat rises and will carry the perfume with it.

The excellent staying power of Perfume can be attributed to the high percentage of oils used , which will fall somewhere between 20 and 40 per cent, meaning that approximately 50 per cent will remain on the skin all day.

EAU DE PARFUM

The Eau de Parfum generally contains between seven to 14 per cent of jus. It provides a good impression of the fragrance but, because they are far more refreshing (due to the increase in top and head notes), they will lack a Perfume’s softness and lasting quality. Approximately 30 per cent of the composition is made from base and deep base notes, so it has good lasting qualities. That said, if applied in the morning, some 70 per cent will have disappeared by noon. Eau de Parfum is a perfect companion for Perfume when sprayed liberally over the body, as the base supports a small quantity of Perfume well. This combination is ideal for someone who likes to be able to smell the scent they are wearing.

EAU DE TOILETTE

Eau de Toilette takes its name from a very complex and expensive product created by perfumers centuries ago that was made from fabric (hence toile, which is French for fabric). This toile was impregnated with perfume over many months and made into a sponge-shaped object, used dry to ‘cleanse’, refresh, and scent the body. With the development of the guild of gantier-parfumeur and the increased use of scent, the formulae were then added to alcohol and used for the same purpose.

I believe the best way to translate the sentiment of Eau de Toilette is ‘refreshing water’, as everything about our toilette relates to refreshing ourselves. An Eau de Toilette is not about perfuming ourselves, which is why so many people complain that their fragrances do not last, as they use Eau de Toilette rather than Perfume but expect longevity from their fragrance.

This is easily understood when one discovers they only contain between three and eight per cent of jus and that 80 per cent will disappear within approximately four hours. They should be used in the same way as Eau de Parfum, and are perfect for someone who seeks a very discreet effect. However, in order to maintain such discretion and long-lasting qualities, it must be used with ultra soft Perfume. I have always claimed my title as Parfumeur, not Eau de Toiletteur!

EAU DE COLOGNE

There are two distinct types of Eau de Cologne:

• The classic Kölnishwasser, which is based upon an elaborate medley of Hesperidic notes (often with Orange Blossom) but rarely with much in the heart or base. The volatility of the structure makes them the most uplifting of all fragrant products and the most fleeting. They are generally made from two to four per cent of jus.
• Eau Fraîche, which took its name from Dior’s Eau Fraîche created by Roudnitska. They are similar to Eau de Cologne, but have better tenacity. The discovery of Dihydrojasmonate or ‘Hedione’ (the Firmenich tradename for the material) really allowed this area of perfumery to flourish and gave rise to nearly all the creations bearing the name ‘Eau’. They have a structure more akin to Eau de Toilette than Cologne, as they have heart and base notes and are generally composed of three to seven per cent of jus.